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After less time, though more faff, than the train from Cambridge to Plymouth, I found myself by the seaside in Split.

This is a glorious place; I knew it had well-preserved Roman walls, but not that it retained a fair amount of 3rd-century Roman architecture and a car-free medieval street layout, and while I'd looked at a contour map I hadn't realised how impressively the hills loomed behind it.

The guide tells me that this is definitely not a twenty-foot-high statue of Gandalf with a big toe burnished gold by residents touching it for good luck, but I'm sure she's in on the conspiracy


A plate of locally-caught fried seafood sufficient to comfort a moderately glum walrus cost £6.75 or so

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